The 1998 Brut Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill opens with intriguing, exotic notes of smoke, cured meats and tar. This is a big, sweeping Sir Winston Churchill endowed with layers of perfumed ripe pears, quince, flowers and spices in a style that balances a generous expression of fruit with acidity and minerality. Everything is in the right place in this delicate yet deeply satisfying Champagne. This bottle was disgorged at the beginning of 2007. Winston Churchill is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Pinot playing the leading role. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2023. Pol Roger is one of Champagne¿s historic houses. I have long admired the estate¿s Champagnes for their superb balance and gracefulness. This year I found the best wines at the bottom and top of the ranges, while the mid-level wines revealed some inconsistency, something that is not uncommon among properties of this size. The tete de cuvee, Sir Winston Churchill, named after the estate¿s most famous customer, is often among the finest wines in the region. Lot numbers are stamped on the corks, but it would be nice to see Pol Roger indicate the disgorgement date on its labels. Robert Parker