‘Boasting a level of precision up there with the very best in the Right Bank.’
Neal Martin
As the last Château show their cards we have a duo of right bank beauties this morning. Showing some of the best of St-Émilion and Pomerol these wines are small production yet big on flavour, finesse and freshness.
Figeac is one of the longest established Château in St-Émilion. With clear roots dating back over two-thousand years its terroir has long been recognised as very special indeed. The varying soils, slopes and micro-climates of the estate complement the three grape varieties wonderfully. Over time the perfect site for each has been found and utilised to its full potential. Combined with the virtues of the 2015 vintage – which particularly favoured the wines of the right bank – Figeac has delivered a wine that flirts with perfection. It is comfortably the equal of the best vintages of the past twenty years and with time in bottle may well deserve elevation to the topmost ranks of the all-time greats. Of 136 St-Émilions sampled, and scored by Jancis Robinson, Figeac was only bettered in score by two other wines: Cheval Blanc & Ausone. This is a wine which bristles with a sense of balanced bravado. It exudes class and charm and you cannot help but be swept away by its effortless delivery of soaring aromatics, the purest fruit flavours, mouth-watering freshness and silky tannins.
Situated to the south of Viex Château Certan and within striking distance of L’Evangile and Pétrus, La Conseillante occupies some of the best land in all of Pomerol. Classicism is key at this estate and they have utilised this recipe perfectly in 2015. The utmost care is always taken to maintain and draw out the inherent quality of the fruit. In this aim they have undoubtedly succeeded. This is more refined than larger scaled, warmer vintages of the past. Yet it still retains that hallmark poise, length and balance that makes this wine so appealing. Lurking beneath lies an extra depth of spice and delicate aromas. The interplay of intensity and restraint, powerful fruit and fine-toned florals make this a very special wine.
Château Figeac 2015, St-Émilion
£1,120 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£560 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
The Cabernet comes through strongly on the nose - classic Figeac in many ways - black fruit, a touch of cassis, pencil and a touch of rose petal. The palate is drop-dead gorgeous, its foundation a lattice of filigree tannin and perfectly judged acidity. It is very fresh from its vivacious start to its pencil-lead finish imbued with effortless grace. It is almost comical that naysayers decried that Michel Rolland would turn Figeac into some kind of fruit bomb. Head winemaker Frédéric Faye has overseen a tip-top classic Figeac without any of the greenness that occasionally affected older vintages, now boasting a level of precision up there with the very best in the Right Bank. It was difficult to find fault with this quite astonishing Saint Emilion and who knows what could transpire once it is in bottle.
Drink 2020 – 2055
97-99/100, Neal Martin
The 2015 Figeac is superb. A blast of tannin hits the palate first followed by waves of inky purplish fruit, exotic spices, new leather, lavender and mint. Beams of pulsating acidity and structure give the 2015 much of its super-distinctive personality. The 2015 is powerful and built to age, that much is clear. In 2015, Figeac brings together the generosity of the year with the classic sense of structure that is so unique to Figeac, with a touch greater polish that Michel Rolland has brought since he arrived. The 2015 is compelling. It's as simple as that.
93-96/100, Antonio Galloni
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Château La Conseillante 2015, Pomerol
£1,240 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£620 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
Is extraordinarily pure and elegant on the nose. Here, I find a little more red fruit than black fruit, extremely elegant and articulating the terroir with great clarity. At first, wild strawberry and cranberry, then crushed stone, a touch of black truffle and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and elegant with fine tannin on the entry. This is one of the most approachable La Conseillante wines that I have tasted in barrel, the acidity very well judged, "classic" in style, good backbone here with a structured finish. It does not quite possess the bravura of the 2010 La Conseillante and I would agree with winemaker Marielle Cazaux that it bears more semblances to the 2005 La Conseillante at this stage, and even bore common traits with its neighbour, Vieux Château Certan. This is an intellectual and to put it prosaically, "delicious" La Conseillante.
Drink 2021 – 2045
95-97/100, Neal Martin
A total knockout, the 2015 La Conseillante possesses stunning depth, nuance and complexity. Soaring aromatics meld into a core of dark-fleshed stone fruits, with hints of mocha, crème de cassis, menthol, violets and dark spices that develop in the glass. The 2015 is not an obvious wine, but it is exceptionally beautiful. The blend is 81% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc. Don’t' miss it.
95-97/100, Antonio Galloni
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