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‘Simply put, the 2015 is one of the wines of the vintage’
Antonio Galloni
A counterpoint to Pichon Baron’s release last week, this morning we have Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. Originally both Pichon estates were one but they were divided amongst Baron Joseph de Pichon Longueville’s five children in 1850. Pichon Baron went to his two sons and Pichon Comtesse to his three daughters. Perhaps it is the location, or the soil, or maybe it was even partially crafted by the split between the Longueville children that gives these wines their different character, but today Comtesse poses a contrast to the burlier, more intense style of Baron and instead favours a more feminine approach. Jancis confidently proclaims that there is ‘Lots to treasure here’ and we absolutely concur. Characteristic merlot aromas come to the fore first and are quickly followed by hints of herbal spice and blackberries. A wine of stature and grace it competes to be one of the very best wines in the appellation.
Reserve de Comtesse has even more Merlot than the Grand Vin this year. It shares a sense of weightlessness and silkiness whilst also offering darker fruits and spice. This will be a wine to indulge in the short to medium term. Not just a second wine but a lovely and meaningful wine in its own right.
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Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 2015, 2ème Cru Classé, Pauillac 2015 
It has a very pure bouquet with expressive Merlot imparting black cherries and wild strawberry aromas that are embroidered with a thread of graphite. I noticed how it errs more towards black fruit with extended aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannin on the entry, the Cabernet Sauvignon here in the driving seat despite that level of Merlot trying to get in a look. Together they give a sense of completeness to this Pichon Lalande that has semblances towards the great 1996. Whereas this Pauillac has a tendency to be more approachable than others, in fact, the 2015 has the backbone and substance to suggest that it will require a minimum of ten years' ageing, but patience will be amply rewarded. Nicolas Glumineau has overseen a quite brilliant Pichon Lalande here.
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Reserve de Comtesse de Lalande 2015, Pauillac, Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 
It has a very fine, quite sophisticated and pure bouquet with black cherries, cedar and violet aromas, perfumed and sensual. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, rounded tannin that is cloaked by layers of tobacco-tinged black fruit that segues into a long, lightly spiced finish. This is a delightful, quite serious deuxième vin that I suspect will age much longer than drinkers will afford it. Try to give this five years and you will be rewarded.
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