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BORDEAUX WINE REGION

The greatest vineyards have of course proved that they will produce great wine whatever the conditions. In a region as renowned and celebrated for its rich history as Bordeaux, twenty years is a mere blink of the eye. However, the changes over the last two decades have been profound. Vineyards have changed hands, new winemaking techniques have come and gone and of course the worldwide interest in the very greatest wines has gone into overdrive.

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2007 Château Hosanna, Pomerol

Château Hosanna

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Case of 6 x 75cl £406.08

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An exotic spiciness on the nose here, almost flamboyantly aromatic. On the palate, there is an easy, lilting flow and an engaging personality that it is impossible not to like. Alongside the spices comes earthiness, mocha, fleshy, plummy fruit and a smooth, creamy note from well-integrated oak. A beautiful finish, revelling in its natural balance, this is a confident wine...

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2009 Aile d'Argent

Château Mouton Rothschild

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Case of 6 x 75cl £406.08

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2009 Réserve de Léoville Barton

Château Léoville Barton

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Case of 12 x 75cl £410.16

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2010 Château Pedesclaux, Pauillac

Château Pedesclaux

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Case of 12 x 75cl £416.16

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Case of 12 x 75cl £417.36

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Case of 12 x 75cl £422.16

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An old-school nose of meaty, spicy dark fruit, smoke and tobacco but with a lifted, floral fragrance over the top of it. A tight tannic structure frames a middle-weight palate with good density and weight of fruit. There is clarity and purity here and a fine, detailed finish. Very accomplished and sure to appeal. Drink 2017-2030+ 16.5

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Case of 6 x 75cl £424.08

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Case of 12 x 75cl £428.16

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Extremely concentrated black fruits on the nose with a hint of spice and liquorice. Elegant and more restrained in the mouth, with great texture. This promises great things. Less showy than some of its peers this is a wonderful Arrosée in an exceptional vintage.

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Case of 12 x 75cl £428.16

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2009 Château Haut Bergey Rouge, Pessac Léognan

Château Haut Bergey

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Case of 12 x 75cl £434.16

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A really entricing nose of bramble and loganberry merging with earthy, animal notes on the palate. Fresh, energetic and nicely balanced with a mineral side coming through on the finish. The team here have judged this exactly right. Drink 2017-2030. 16.35

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2018 Chapelle de la Mission, Graves

Château Mission Haut Brion

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BORDEAUX WINE REGION

Fashions have seen the rise and fall of the garagistes and the influence of the consultant winemaker. However, for all of these human elements, the 1855 classification remains unchanged and, whether it has been the torrid heat of 2003, the gloom of 2007 or the glory of 2005, the greatest vineyards have proved that they produce great wine whatever the conditions.

In the next twenty years, we will undoubtedly see further pressure on supply at the top with prices continuing to stretch credulity. But what of the hundreds of smaller producers, who have struggled so badly in recent times? Theirs is not the good fortune of great terroir and in a fast moving world, it is here that reform is needed most strongly. The EU wine lake has been emptied and the bad practices that it encouraged are happily draining away too. For the consumer, the result must be the guarantee of ever greater quality because whatever the level of classification, if Bordeaux wants to maintain its position as the number one wine region in the world, quality must be at the centre of its plans.

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