The greatest vineyards have of course proved that they will produce great wine whatever the conditions. In a region as renowned and celebrated for its rich history as Bordeaux, twenty years is a mere blink of the eye. However, the changes over the last two decades have been profound. Vineyards have changed hands, new winemaking techniques have come and gone and of course the worldwide interest in the very greatest wines has gone into overdrive.
Dark cherry and mulberry fruit, with notes of smoke and tar on top, this is a big, assertive wine on first inspection. On the palate, this doesn't let up, intensifying further with earthiness, spice and licquorice. Dense and with plenty of muscle, there is plenty packed in here which needs time to fully resolve. A little raw at present on...more
Bottle 75cl £212.60
Case 6 x 75cl £2,247.60
Rich, leesy, mealy wine with notes of lemon and pink grapefuit, sherbet and a considerable sense of dimension here. Oak showing too but very well integrated with the zippy fruit. The finish reverberates, comes back time and again with another wave of flavour. Terrific wine. 83 Sem : 17 SBmore
This is a monumental wine with incredibly complex aromas. Dark fruit characters give way to notes of minerals, roasted coffee and chocolate. Impenetrable at first, there is a masses of rich fruit on the palate behind the firm, almost austere structure. The tannins are bold, but beautifully ripe, and there is a lively vein of acidity which runs through until...more
Bottle 75cl £192.60
Beautiful notes of spice on the nose, with an intricate lacy detail and lovely soft fruits, this is enticing and enveloping, with a cloak of velvet surrounding the tannins. There is quite a drive behind it too but the overall feel is of voluptuousness and seduction. Drink 2019-2030+ - 17more
Bottle 75cl £212.60
A terrific example of Lafleur, the 2006 ?.. is almost as good as their brilliant 2005 ?.. it boasts a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of black cherries, kirsch liqueur, licorice, and minerals, sweet tannin, and a medium to full-bodied style. It is reminiscent of a richer, more bulked up, concentrated version of the 1999 or...more
Bottle 75cl £650.60
The perfect combination of power and elegance, this is gracious and seamless with sumptuous silky textures and beautiful lifted fragrances to accompany the succulent fruit. Pontallier compares to 2005 for power, 1990 for the quality of the tannins and 1982 for elegance. For all those that love Margaux, this is an essential purchase. 19.5 points 2019-2030+ 87CS :9M :2PV :2CF...more
Bottle 75cl £662.60
Fashions have seen the rise and fall of the garagistes and the influence of the consultant winemaker. However, for all of these human elements, the 1855 classification remains unchanged and, whether it has been the torrid heat of 2003, the gloom of 2007 or the glory of 2005, the greatest vineyards have proved that they produce great wine whatever the conditions.
In the next twenty years, we will undoubtedly see further pressure on supply at the top with prices continuing to stretch credulity. But what of the hundreds of smaller producers, who have struggled so badly in recent times? Theirs is not the good fortune of great terroir and in a fast moving world, it is here that reform is needed most strongly. The EU wine lake has been emptied and the bad practices that it encouraged are happily draining away too. For the consumer, the result must be the guarantee of ever greater quality because whatever the level of classification, if Bordeaux wants to maintain its position as the number one wine region in the world, quality must be at the centre of its plans.