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PRODUCER

GIACOMO FENOCCHIO

Thrust into running this estate south of Alba, in Piedmont, at a young age - just as his father, who gave his name to the label, before him - Claudio Fenocchio had a choice to make… maintain the Barolo tradition of producing tannin-heavy wines which age well, or follow the modernists into producing wines which can be drunk young. He decided on a third way: radical traditionalism, producing Barolo which can be drunk young but gets better with age…
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TASTING NOTES

Dried cherries, raspberries, tobacco and crushed flowers rise effortlessly from the glass. Delicate berry-infusions are contained within a tightly packed tannic structure. But the texture is beautifully silken. Freshness and verve are the hallmarks of this appealing vintage and this wonderful Barolo has it in spades.

Armit Wines

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2013 Barolo, Giacomo Fenocchio

Bottle 75cl £29.60

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Modern but restrained fruit with a tremendous floral scent, dark chocolate and leather. Manages to tame the wild tannins of Nebbiolo, giving a fine abrasion on the palate and bright acidity. Remarkably delicate structure, and very much drinkable now.

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2012 Barolo, Giacomo Fenocchio

Bottle 75cl £28.20

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Mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Almost rich cherry fruit on the nose. Supple and mellow with just a medium-weight feel. Grainy tannins on the finish, and already approachable.

16 points, Walter Speller

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Image of wine Barolo
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Dried cherries, raspberries, tobacco and crushed flowers rise effortlessly from the glass. Delicate berry-infusions are contained within a tightly packed tannic structure. But the texture is beautifully silken. Freshness and verve are the hallmarks of this appealing vintage and this wonderful Barolo has it in spades.

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2013 Barolo, Giacomo Fenocchio

Magnum 150cl £71.20

Image of wine Barolo Bussia
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Concentrated ruby. Pretty nose of cherry and dried fruit. Supple and elegant palate with hints of orange and dried fruit. Polished tannins underneath. Long, and set to become more complex with further bottle age. 

17.5 points, Walter Speller

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Image of wine Barolo Villero
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Mid ruby with orange tinges. Leafy, cool cherry nose with hints of iron. Backward, youthful sweet fruit and wonderful grainy tannins. Great balance but not ready by far.

17+ points, Walter Speller

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2013 Barolo

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Magnum 150cl £71.20

Bottle 75cl

Single bottle£29.60

Case of 6 £177.60

Double Magnum 300cl

Single bottle£160.40

Image of wine Barolo
BUY
TASTING NOTES

Dried cherries, raspberries, tobacco and crushed flowers rise effortlessly from the glass. Delicate berry-infusions are contained within a tightly packed tannic structure. But the texture is beautifully silken. Freshness and verve are the hallmarks of this appealing vintage and this wonderful Barolo has it in spades.

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2013 Barolo, Giacomo Fenocchio

Magnum 150cl £71.20

2012 Barolo Cannubi

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Magnum 150cl £83.20

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Youthful ruby. At first a little balsamic and with hints of red fruit. Sweet, ripe fruit on the attack. Very elegant, fragrant palate with lively acidity and firm tannins that are a little astringent on the finish.

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2013 Dolcetto d'Alba

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £14.14

Image of wine Dolcetto d'Alba
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TASTING NOTES

As you draw the nose towards the glass there are distinctive notes of sweet cherries and bright raspberries. This summery sweetness continues as the wine surfs onto the palate displaying hints of strawberries, soft velvety tannins and a smooth mineral finish. Already delicious. Drink now.

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2016 Dolcetto d'Alba

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £14.90

Case of 6 £89.40

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2014 Dolcetto d'Alba

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £14.90

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As you draw the nose towards the glass there are distinctive notes of sweet cherries and bright raspberries. This summery sweetness continues as the wine surfs onto the palate displaying hints of strawberries, soft velvety tannins and a smooth mineral finish. Already delicious.

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2013 Barolo Bussia

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Magnum 150cl £91.60

Double Magnum 300cl

Single bottle£202.40

Bottle 75cl

Single bottle£37.60

Case of 6 £225.60

Image of wine Barolo Bussia
BUY
TASTING NOTES

Concentrated ruby. Pretty nose of cherry and dried fruit. Supple and elegant palate with hints of orange and dried fruit. Polished tannins underneath. Long, and set to become more complex with further bottle age. 

17.5 points, Walter Speller

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2013 Barolo Cannubi

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Magnum 150cl £95.20

Double Magnum 300cl

Single bottle£202.40

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Mid to dark ruby with orange tinges. More depth on the nose than most Cannubi wines so far. Focused palate with plenty of fruit perfectly matched by fine, coating tannins. 

17+ points, Walter Speller

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2013 Barolo Villero

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Magnum 150cl £95.20

Double Magnum 300cl

Single bottle£202.40

Bottle 75cl

Single bottle£40.60

Case of 6 £243.60

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Mid ruby with orange tinges. Leafy, cool cherry nose with hints of iron. Backward, youthful sweet fruit and wonderful grainy tannins. Great balance but not ready by far.

17+ points, Walter Speller

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2016 Roero Arneis

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £15.96

Case of 6 £95.70

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2014 Roero Arneis

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £15.96

Case of 6 £95.70

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TASTING NOTES

This fresh and juicy white wine shows intense aromas of tropical fruit, tangy citrus, white peach and hints of camomile. The palate bursts with bright fruit and a hint of spice with a creamy texture and a long finish.

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2013 Barbera d'Alba

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £16.14

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This Barbera charms the nose with subtle notes of sweet red fruits and a touch of savoury spice. The palate displays rich flavours of strawberries, and blackberries. The tannins are pleasantly structured and add a real sense of texture, lovely cool, refreshing finish. Just waiting for you to drink it now.

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2015 Barbera d'Alba

Giacomo Fenocchio

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Bottle 75cl £17.00

Case of 6 £102.00

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Since 1864, five generations of the Fenocchio family have been producing wine in the heart of Barolo - most of them born in the same yellow house in Monforte d’Alba, at the top of a hillside covered in Nebbiolo grapes.

In 1947, the young Giacomo took control of the estate, and built up the winemaking significantly. In the 1960s, he acquired parcels of land on different hillsides around Alba and the Giacomo Fenocchio label began gaining international recognition.

Giacomo passed away in 1989 and, like his father, Claudio Fenocchio had a steep learning curve (albeit supported by his brothers Albino and Alberto). This coincided with the “Barolo Wars”... modernisers shortened maceration periods, encouraged malolactic fermentation and aged the wine in small barriques - all with the aim of softening the traditionally robust tannins of Barolo and making it a wine for drinking young rather than ageing. Faced with the choice between a commercial approach and maintaining the philosophy of his father, Claudio opted for something else: “radical traditionalism”.

Claudio says, “Perhaps somebody up there advised me to be true to the tradition of our terroir.” But, while he planted foundations in the “traditional” camp, he did not set out to simply preserve his father’s legacy, but to build on it. The 1989 estate’s 7 hectares have grown to 14 now, all in grand cru locations. While the majority are still in Bussia Sottana, close by the winery, Fenocchio also owns vineyards in Cannubi, Castellero and Villero in Castiglione Falletto.

Fenocchio has not taken up organic or biodynamic farming methods but, on the other hand, the estate never took to chemical fertilisers or herbicides, so diverse ground cover and natural predators protect the vines, which grow at their own pace. And in the winery, fermentation is similarly driven by nature and the local micro-flora.

Technically, Claudio has found a way of producing wines which have approachable fruit when young, yet built around a strong tannic structure which does not overwhelm early on, but encourages the development of the wine over years. It is partly due to some green harvesting and careful selection, partly due to enzymatic reaction (ironically) during the long fermentation, which melds the fruit and tannin seamlessly. Barolos are aged for five months in stainless steel, two years in Slovenian oak and a further year in the bottle before release.

More than defining itself as traditional or modern Barolo, Giacomo Fenocchio wine is an expression of terroir. As well as the excellent lead Barolo, there are specific bottlings from Fenocchio’s different vineyards. Bussia’s compact clay and limestone has supple notes of tobacco, cherry and orange; Cannubi’s and Castellero’s lighter, sandier soils have similar flavours but with drier fruit; and Villero’s iron-rich clay and limestone comes through in a leafy, ferrous, rich wine. The vines closest to the family home also receive special treatment in the Bussia Riserva - velvety tannins gently carry truffle, herbs and spices through the nose, onto the palate and into a pleasingly long finish.

In addition to Nebbiolo, the Fenocchio team also works with other traditional Piedmont grape varieties - notably Dolcetto (fresh and fruity, with balancing dryness and bitter notes) and Barbera (full-bodied, with an intense bouquet and distinct acidity).

The Fenocchio family is fiercely proud of its Langhe background. However, in the past decade, Claudio has crossed not the Rubicon, but the Tanaro river to acquire a parcel of land in the Roero region of the Piedmont. Here he has again opted for the traditional approach - rather than plant Chardonnay, as many in the region do, he has stuck with indigenous Arneis, resulting in a pale yellow wine with tropical fruit on the nose, and crisp apple on the palate, although with a creamy texture. Again, rather than being a compromise, it is a wine that achieves two different targets - just like the Barolo.

All of these wines have been available in the UK, imported by Armit Wines since 2010.

Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7908 0655 web@armitwines.co.uk

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