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“Verduno is fast becoming everyone’s darling”
Walter Speller
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The two villages of Verduno and Monforte d’Alba sit on opposite sides of the Barolo zone.
Verduno, right at the foot of the Alps in the north-west corner of the map, is a notably cool area; renowned for its delicate, snow-fresh wines with fine tannins and supreme elegance. The soils here are light and chalky and its finest vineyards, Monvigliero and Massara, have become the preserve of die-hard Barolo collectors. It’s easy to fall in love with the wines of this commune.
A twisty journey across the hills to the far side of the precipitous Barolo countryside lies Monforte d’Alba. This is home to some of Barolo’s most iconic wineries: Giacomo Conterno, Elio Grasso, and Domenico Clerico, to name but a few. The area boasts a wide variety of exposure, soils and microclimates and, as a result, it is tricky to define a typical expression of Nebbiolo from Monforte. They can range from dense and fruity, richly spiced to austere, complex and age-worthy.
The large Bussia vineyard means that almost every grower can lay claim to this cru and quality can be variable. But the best sites are undoubtedly Ginestra and Mosconi, whose wines are hedonistic and powerful.
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| 2013 Barolo Massara, Castello di Verduno |
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£150 per 6 Bottles In Bond
Verduno. Pale ruby. Archetypal Nebbiolo nose of iron and cherry. Subdued but complex. Austere and closed on the palate, with the fine cherry fruit coming out on the finish. Just medium weight and firmly tannic. Pinot Noir look-alike! And in spite of this will need time.
16.5 points, Walter Speller
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“Castello di Verduno is a premier Verduno estate… turning out exquisite wines of fascinating complexity and depth”
Kerin O’Keefe
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The Burlotto family is synonymous with this modest village and they are well known for their prestigious holdings in Verduno. Castello di Verduno was bought by one branch of the Burlotto family in the 1900s and, thanks to the marriage of Gabriella Burlotto to Franco Biano, they also have holdings in Barbaresco as well. Their signature wine, Massara, is always an impressive effort and no less so in 2013, displaying remarkable depth and complexity whose eye-wateringly smart price you simply will not be able to resist.
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| 2013 Barolo Ginestra, Paolo Conterno |
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£245 per 6 Bottles In Bond
Monforte d’Alba. Youthful mid ruby. Amazingly powerful nose of spice and brooding fruit. Gorgeous, medium bodied, yet powerfully tannic and with embryonic fruit. True cru material.
17+ points, Walter Speller
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“A territory-driven wine that reflects all the characteristics associated with the Ginestra cru”
Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
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This estate is intrinsically linked with the exceptional vineyard of Ginestra: one of Barolo’s most fascinating crus. Giorgio Conterno made his first vintage at the family estate in 1990 and was born here, so he is as deeply rooted in this cru as his vines. In 2013, Ginestra has its own personality, set apart from the other sites of Monforte d’Alba. Here, the wines are ethereal and delicate, partly down to the elevated altitude. The 2013 is an astonishing wine that leaves a lasting impression on the taster owing to its stunning fragrance. If this was a Burgundy, and his wines are very Burgundian, it would be a Vosne Romanée. Dark fruits, with a wild, untamed character.
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