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‘The focus and penetration here ranks among the finest that I have tasted at this estate’
Neal Martin
The illustrious Château Margaux has released its 2015s this morning. The Grand Vin vies for the accolade of the best wine made in Bordeaux in 2015, whilst its younger siblings afford a glimpse of its brilliance. These are standard bearers for both the appellation and the vintage.
Soaring, sensuous aromatics and elegance in abundance define the Grand Vin and more so than ever in 2015. It is the contradictory delicacy and intensity of the fragrance which proves so beguiling initially. This flows onto a palate of power and purity. It looks set to join the echelons of the greatest vintages of the past, likely to become a legend and given the stunning quality of the wine we are going to have to allocate strictly.
Pavillon Rouge is a superb cuvee that transcends the term “second wine”. The team at the estate declared this was their finest effort for Pavillon ever. Feminine florals and fine blue fruits are wholly inviting. The texture and structure are arresting. It combines the power and freshness of the Grand Vin with aplomb.
The Pavillon Blanc (100% Sauvignon Blanc) is a wine of great beauty and appeal. Made in very small quantities it has a sense of focus and precision. Intensely fresh and with layers of subtle seduction it completes a trio of great wines made in 2015.
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2015 Château Margaux, 1er Cru Margaux 
The bouquet is aimed directly at the senses - there is no dilly-dallying about, as it almost knocks you off your stool with its intense mineralité embroidered into this iridescent, graphite-tinged nose. The focus and penetration here ranks among the finest that I have tasted at this estate since first coming here in 1997. The palate is astonishingly well balanced, perfectly poised with super-fine tannins wrapped around pure blackberry, bilberry, graphite and cedar fruit. Like the Pavillon Rouge this year, there is a Pauillac-like sense of authority and aristocracy, leavened by Margaux-inspired femininity that completes that standout 2015 on the Left Bank. Beg for a bottle and worry about the cost later. Post script: I composed this tasting note five days before the passing of Paul Pontallier. It is a final gift from a gifted winemaker.
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Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 2015 
It has a very refined bouquet, focused and extraordinarily pure with blackcurrant, blueberry and minerals. The 50% new oak is beautifully integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a little more masculine than I was expecting, a Pavillon with firm structure imparted by that higher proportion of Cabernet. But the freshness is ample and there is a long, satisfying graphite note that seems to last forever on the finish. What a great deuxième vin, a stunning Pavillon Rouge.
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2015 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux, Bordeaux Blanc 
The 2015 Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux was cropped at 20 hl/ha and represents just one-third of the production, equivalent to around 10,000 bottles. It has a fresh lime cordial, apple blossom and white peach scented bouquet that is very seductive. The palate is well balanced with a keen thread of acidity, engendered by the cool nights in August and September. It is very harmonious with almond and a touch of stem ginger and sour lemon towards the finish, an accomplished Pavillon Blanc that should offer 10-15 years of pleasure.
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