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‘If you want to know whether this 2015 is up there with the 2009 or 2010, the answer is unquestionably yes.’
Neal Martin
This morning sees the release of one of the heavy hitters of Pauillac - Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron. Consistently great and worthy of attention this is a wine of pedigree and class, though not a bargain. Having had a chance to recover from the barrage of releases last week we have rounded up a triumvirate of our favourite wines which combine quality and value.
Equipping itself very well Grand Puy Lacoste is exceedingly close in quality to Pichon Baron. It has all the purity and character of Pauillac and at a price which makes it a rewarding proposition. For those amongst you who are already fans of, or perhaps yet to be converted, to the brilliance of Pessac Leognan, Domaine de Chevalier offers an inimitable style of seduction. Wonderfully focussed and complex its considerable charms are not to be ignored.
As well as possessing one of, if not the, most beautiful chateau in all of Bordeaux Pichon Baron makes one of the best wines in Pauillac. Pichon Lalande and Pichon Baron were once the same property but since their separation in 1850 the former has made a lighter more elegant wines, whereas Pichon Baron is typically broader, richer and more intense.
The heart of the vineyards lie facing Château Latour – literally over the road – and it is the quality of this land, the age of the vines and the attention lavished upon them which translates into the grandeur so often evident in the Grand Vin. 2015 sees a stellar wine once again, easily in line with recent greats. A dark, inky wine the colour is matched by tayberry and hedgerow fruit. The muscularity of the wine is lifted by a glossy texture and alluring red-fruited perfume. It is priced to match its quality though it cannot be said that this offers value per se.
Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, 2015, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé
£965 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£485 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
£490 Per 3 Magnums En Primeur
£975 Per 6 Magnums En Primeur
It has a very pure bouquet with lifted blackcurrant, blueberry and graphite aromas, beautifully delineated, the oak seamlessly embroidered with the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin. This is disarmingly and utterly harmonious with a startling mineral core. Possibly the most sensual Pichon Baron that I have tasted at this nascent juncture, it gently unfolds in the mouth and leaves with an enormously persistent finish that leaves the senses tingling. If you want to know whether this 2015 is up there with the 2009 or 2010, the answer is unquestionably yes. Drink 2022 – 2050. 96-98/100, Neal Martin
A wine of total seduction, the 2015 Pichon-Longueville Baron possesses exceptional richness, power and intensity, all in the suave, inviting style of the year. Silky, voluptuous and creamy, the 2015 is totally spherical on the palate. This is an undeniably charming Pichon-Baron that should drink beautifully for several decades. Hints of lavender, mint, violet and crème de cassis add the closing shades of nuance in this seamless, racy Pauillac. 93-96/100, Antonio Galloni
The 2015 is richly flavoured with plenty of ageing potential. Intense aromas of blackberry and ripe succulent fruit mingle with notes of cedar smoke and tobacco. On the palate, dark berry fruits are framed by firm tannins and there is a refreshing redcurrant character which leads to a persistent finish with notes of wild herbs and spices. An impressive wine, it will need a few years to mature before drinking.Drink 2022 – 2035. 18/20, Armit Wines
Château Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac
£500 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£250 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
£255 Per 3 Magnums En Primeur
£508 Per 6 Magnums En Primeur
Now, Grand-Puy-Lacoste is often quite "aloof" at this early juncture, but that is not the case with the 2015. This is more approachable aromatically, beautifully defined, thanks to that expressive Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin and finely tuned acidity (pH 3.68). Beguilingly harmonious in the mouth, it boasts a silky smooth texture with wonderful salinity on the aftertaste that is sustained in the mouth. As usual, Xavier Borie has produced a "classic" Pauillac, but one that is a little more appeasing to those that don't want to cellar for 20-30 years. You could describe the 2015 as being between 2009 and 2010...and that, folks, is not a bad place to be.Drink 2028-2060. 94-96/100, Neal Martin
A rich, super-finessed wine, the 2015 Grand-Puy-Lacoste brings together the ripeness of the vintage and classic elegance of Pauillac in stunning style. Today, the 2015 is gloriously ripe and intense, with fabulous follow-through and remarkable balance. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, exotic, spice and blood orange hit the flamboyant finish. This is one of the wines of the vintage. Don't miss it.
92-95/100, Antonio Galloni
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Léognan
£460 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£230 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
£235 Per 3 Magnums En Primeur
£465 Per 6 Magnums En Primeur
It has a sophisticated bouquet that is more reserved than its peers. It possesses one of the most precise, detailed aromatic profiles that I have encountered from this estate, wonderfully poised with black fruit, incense and cold stone. It has wonderful focus and class. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, very complex with lightly peppered black fruit. What marks this Domaine de Chevalier is the reserve and precision on the finish, a wine that is holding something back for its secondary evolution, a salinity that beckons you back for another sip. What a fabulous, intellectual wine from Olivier Bernard. Expect four decades of drinking pleasure - probably more - given my experience of ancient vintages.Drink 2022 – 2055. 95-97/100, Neal Martin
The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier is one of the most striking wines of the year. Weightless, powerful and intense, the 2015 possesses crystalline delineation and precision from the very first taste. Bright red stone fruit, pomegranate, chalk and mint are some of the signatures. In the last of my four tastings, the Domaine de Chevalier showed tremendous richness and intensity as well. It will be interesting to see where the 2015 ends up. The future certainly looks bright.
93-96/100, Antonio Galloni
A delicate nose of black fruits. On the palate, the wine has a striking definition of plums and blackberries. It is full body with intense definition and purity. A wine of elegance and precision! The finish is long and promises years of beautiful evolution. One of Armit’s favourite. 18.5/20, Armit Wines
