The 2004 Barbaresco is a beautiful wine endowed with expressive aromatics and an attractive core of ripe red fruit. Subtle notes of spices, smoke, tar and licorice add complexity. The wine possesses outstanding length and refined tannins that will only become more elegant with further bottle age. The Barbaresco is made from various estate-owned vineyards in Treiso. Roughly 30% of the wine was aged in French oak, which gives this Barbaresco a slightly modern accent without compromising what is a mostly traditional interpretation of Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Proprietor Pio Boffa has fashioned some of the finest wines of his career with his 2004 Barbarescos and Barolos. These 2004s are remarkably open even at this early stage. When I asked Boffa if he thought the 2004s would shut down in bottle Boffa responded that it was unlikely because the wines would have already begun to clamp down at this stage if they were indeed headed for a stubborn period. Boffa continued to say he had never seen a vintage with such quality and quantity, echoing a refrain heard throughout Piedmont when discussing the 2004 vintage. Like so many producers, Boffa has backed off the French oak, a move that has benefitted his wines to a huge degree. Robert Parker