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BORDEAUX

The greatest vineyards have of course proved that they will produce great wine whatever the conditions. In a region as renowned and celebrated for its rich history as Bordeaux, twenty years is a mere blink of the eye. However, the changes over the last two decades have been profound. Vineyards have changed hands, new winemaking techniques have come and gone and of course the worldwide interest in the very greatest wines has gone into overdrive.

Fashions have seen the rise and fall of the garagistes and the influence of the consultant winemaker. However, for all of these human elements, the...

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1998 Château Bahans Haut Brion, Graves

Château Haut Brion

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Case of 12 x 75cl £1,471.20

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Case 12 x 75cl £1,416.60

Image of wine Château de Fargues 2ème Cru Sauternes
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Brilliant, intense, rich and unctuous, this combines undoubted class with a little flamboyance too. Notes of peach, nectarine and sherbet with enough acidity to counter the sweetness, overlaying a deep, layered core and a mineral streak on the finish. This has you could possibly want from a top Sauternes. Chapeau to Lur-Saluces. Drink 2015-2030+. 18.5

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2008 Château Laville Haut Brion Blanc, Cr Classé Graves

Château Laville Haut Brion

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Case 6 x 75cl £1,545.60

Image of wine Château Laville Haut Brion Blanc, Cr Classé Graves
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Crisp lemon fruit with rich mealy notes and a dense texture on the palate, this is really alive, with lovely acidity and plenty of minerality. Very clean and crisp with a long finish but more power than its sibling, this is the Bâtard to the Chevalier. Drink 2014-2025

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2011 Château Lafleur, Pomerol

Château Lafleur

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Case of 6 x 75cl £2,175.60

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2010 Chapelle de la Mission, Graves

Château Mission Haut Brion

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Bottle 75cl £145.64

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A remarkably restrained wine in this vintage. Elegant aromas combine subtle red berry fruits with delicate mineral and savoury notes. On the palate, the tannins are firm, but refined, and the fruit, though sweet and ripe, is balanced by a very refreshing acidity with mineral notes on the finish. Over-all this is a very elegant wine. Drink 2019 - 2035

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2004 Château Lafleur, Pomerol

Château Lafleur

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Case of 6 x 75cl £1,995.60

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Deep, rich and boundless on the palate with aromas of truffles, earth, red fruit, cherries, plums and herbs. The intense concentration is the ideal balance between rich aromas and tannins which complement each other perfectly. This will be excellent come 2011 but will continue to delight for at least two decades more. A stunning wine and one that will be...

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2009 Château Pontet Canet, 5ème Cru Pauillac

Château Pontet Canet

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Case of 12 x 75cl £1,927.20

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Immediately it is clear that this is a wine of enormous stature. Intense, rich, full and expressive, notes of charcoal and graphite sit alongside the concentrated black fruits. Multi-layered, deep and composed with minerals lying underneath, this has tremendous scale, a massive tannic frame and will need many years of patient cellaring. The leading Pauillac outside the first growths? A...

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2013 Château Lafleur, Pomerol

Château Lafleur

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Case of 6 x 75cl £1,875.60

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2014 Château Lafleur, Pomerol

Château Lafleur

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Case of 6 x 75cl £3,375.60

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2011 Château Margaux, 1er Cru Margaux

Château Margaux

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Case of 6 x 75cl £2,175.60

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2007 Château Laville Haut Brion Blanc, Cr Classé Graves

Château Laville Haut Brion

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Case 6 x 75cl £2,247.60

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Rich, leesy, mealy wine with notes of lemon and pink grapefuit, sherbet and a considerable sense of dimension here. Oak showing too but very well integrated with the zippy fruit. The finish reverberates, comes back time and again with another wave of flavour. Terrific wine. 83 Sem : 17 SB

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2006 Château Lafleur, Pomerol

Château Lafleur

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Case of 6 x 75cl £2,295.60

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A terrific example of Lafleur, the 2006 ?.. is almost as good as their brilliant 2005 ?.. it boasts a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of black cherries, kirsch liqueur, licorice, and minerals, sweet tannin, and a medium to full-bodied style. It is reminiscent of a richer, more bulked up, concentrated version of the 1999 or...

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DISPLAYING 61 - 72 of 81

1855 classification remains unchanged and, whether it has been the torrid heat of 2003, the gloom of 2007 or the glory of 2005, the greatest vineyards have proved that they produce great wine whatever the conditions.

In the next twenty years, we will undoubtedly see further pressure on supply at the top with prices continuing to stretch credulity. But what of the hundreds of smaller producers, who have struggled so badly in recent times? Theirs is not the good fortune of great terroir and in a fast moving world, it is here that reform is needed most strongly. The EU wine lake has been emptied and the bad practices that it encouraged are happily draining away too. For the consumer, the result must be the guarantee of ever greater quality because whatever the level of classification, if Bordeaux wants to maintain its position as the number one wine region in the world, quality must be at the centre of its plans.

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