The greatest vineyards have of course proved that they will produce great wine whatever the conditions. In a region as renowned and celebrated for its rich history as Bordeaux, twenty years is a mere blink of the eye. However, the changes over the last two decades have been profound. Vineyards have changed hands, new winemaking techniques have come and gone and of course the worldwide interest in the very greatest wines has gone into overdrive.
Bottle 75cl £130.10
Denis Durantou was in fine humour for our visit and it took little time to see why. Dark purple in colour with a gorgeous nose of ripe fruit, violets and a dash of menthol. Massively concentrated, it literally swells in the mouth, and layers of dark fruit unfold over the palate. Long, lingering, concentrated finish, this goes on and on....more
Bottle 75cl £262.60
Bottle 75cl £145.64
A remarkably restrained wine in this vintage. Elegant aromas combine subtle red berry fruits with delicate mineral and savoury notes. On the palate, the tannins are firm, but refined, and the fruit, though sweet and ripe, is balanced by a very refreshing acidity with mineral notes on the finish. Over-all this is a very elegant wine. Drink 2019 - 2035more
Bottle 75cl £145.64
An incredibly elegant wine with a very attractive bouquet of sweet cassis and blackcurrant fruit with dark cherries and ripe plums in the background. Spicy, vanilla notes give a sense of opulence and style. The palate is smooth textured and exotic with firm, yet velvety tannins and wonderfully deep dark fruit with just a hint of dried citrus on the...more
Bottle 75cl £177.60
Case 6 x 75cl £2,247.60
Rich, leesy, mealy wine with notes of lemon and pink grapefuit, sherbet and a considerable sense of dimension here. Oak showing too but very well integrated with the zippy fruit. The finish reverberates, comes back time and again with another wave of flavour. Terrific wine. 83 Sem : 17 SBmore
Lovely dark colour, with compact black fruits on the attack and a glossy feel. Savoury, herbal note emerges, combining with chocolate and mocha with smooth, elegant soft tannins and a sense of grace and style. This should put on further weight in barrel. Lovely length. Grand Vin is 40% of procuction 49M:44CS:7PVmore
Bottle 75cl £192.60
A deep, confident nose packed with dense purple fruit, wild herbs, earthy spice and a sweet top note. The palate continues this wonderful concentration with layered flavours of cocoa, plum and mulberry. The acidity is high but counters perfectly the ripeness of fruit and weighty fine-grained tannins. This is a gorgeous, focused Pomerol built for serious future glories. 88% Merlot...more
Bottle 75cl £412.60
Fashions have seen the rise and fall of the garagistes and the influence of the consultant winemaker. However, for all of these human elements, the 1855 classification remains unchanged and, whether it has been the torrid heat of 2003, the gloom of 2007 or the glory of 2005, the greatest vineyards have proved that they produce great wine whatever the conditions.
In the next twenty years, we will undoubtedly see further pressure on supply at the top with prices continuing to stretch credulity. But what of the hundreds of smaller producers, who have struggled so badly in recent times? Theirs is not the good fortune of great terroir and in a fast moving world, it is here that reform is needed most strongly. The EU wine lake has been emptied and the bad practices that it encouraged are happily draining away too. For the consumer, the result must be the guarantee of ever greater quality because whatever the level of classification, if Bordeaux wants to maintain its position as the number one wine region in the world, quality must be at the centre of its plans.