The greatest vineyards have of course proved that they will produce great wine whatever the conditions. In a region as renowned and celebrated for its rich history as Bordeaux, twenty years is a mere blink of the eye. However, the changes over the last two decades have been profound. Vineyards have changed hands, new winemaking techniques have come and gone and of course the worldwide interest in the very greatest wines has gone into overdrive.
Even considering some of the great vintages produced under the late Alexis Lichine, this estate has never made a wine as impressive as their 2005. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt is obviously realizing this vineyard¿s full potential. The deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by an open-knit, exotic bouquet of spice, incense, flowers, and sweet black cherries and blackberries. Rich and opulent, with...more
Bottle 75cl £50.68
Ripe blackberry nose - very aromatic. Full, strong entry with grainy dissolved tannins and a melée of red and black fruits. Really quite brambly in nature with broad middle palate weight and mineral touches. Zippy, lively, finely crafted and well integrated and wonderful length - very good potential. 17.5 pointsmore
Bottle 75cl £50.68
Elegant, sweet and aromatic with lovely poise and balance. It has excellent definition on the palate with firm but refined tannins and a lovely freshness on the finish. The flavours are medium bodied, rather than full, with redcurrant and cassis notes and an attractive mineral character. Drink 2015 - 2025more
Bottle 75cl £52.68
Pure cassis on the nose with cedar, sandalwood and classic cigar box notes. On the palate, the tannins are high but fine and ripe and there is excellent depth of fruit and a fresh, elegant feel to the wine which counterbalances the concentration and ripeness. A fine finish too. Drink 2019-2030+. 54CS:34M:12CF 16.5more
Bottle 75cl £54.68
Fashions have seen the rise and fall of the garagistes and the influence of the consultant winemaker. However, for all of these human elements, the 1855 classification remains unchanged and, whether it has been the torrid heat of 2003, the gloom of 2007 or the glory of 2005, the greatest vineyards have proved that they produce great wine whatever the conditions.
In the next twenty years, we will undoubtedly see further pressure on supply at the top with prices continuing to stretch credulity. But what of the hundreds of smaller producers, who have struggled so badly in recent times? Theirs is not the good fortune of great terroir and in a fast moving world, it is here that reform is needed most strongly. The EU wine lake has been emptied and the bad practices that it encouraged are happily draining away too. For the consumer, the result must be the guarantee of ever greater quality because whatever the level of classification, if Bordeaux wants to maintain its position as the number one wine region in the world, quality must be at the centre of its plans.